Two days in Bergen

Godt Brød bakery for coffee and pastries. Or, if you want a sit-down: Colonialen restaurant on Kong Oscars gate does a proper Norwegian breakfast from 8am.

Walk the alleyways while it's still quiet. Take your time — explore the inner courtyards, go up the wooden staircases, look into the workshops on the upper floors. At least an hour here.

The museum next to the wharf is built on the original medieval site and shows what Bergen looked like before the fires. It's excellent and undervisited — most cruise passengers don't bother. Give it 45 minutes.

Walk north and explore the grounds. If medieval architecture interests you, go into Håkon's Hall. If not, walk to the end of the promontory for the harbour view and turn back.

Fish soup, open sandwiches, or a proper fish cake (fiskekake) at the indoor food hall. Good coffee too.

Funicular to Fløyen. Spend at least 90 minutes — take the trail north to Brushytten (45 min return) rather than staying at the viewpoint. The forest is what you're here for. Funicular back down around 16:30.

Wander Øvregaten and the streets above the centre. Some of Bergen's best cafés are up here — Det Lille Kaffekompaniet is worth finding.

Colonialen on Kong Oscars gate is the best value good-quality restaurant in Bergen. Cornelius Fiskrestaurant (on a small island, book ahead) is the special occasion option. Enhjørningen in Bryggen if you want traditional and atmospheric.

If the weather is clear: do the Ulriken cable car and the ridge walk to Fløyen (3 hours total). If the weather is overcast or rainy: take the Mostraumen fjord cruise instead — the fjord looks good in any weather and the boat is covered.

Shuttle bus to the Ulriksbanen cable car, up to 643m, then hike the ridge to Fløyen (2.5–3 hours). Funicular down. This is the best day hike available from Bergen city — exposed ridgeline with views in every direction.

Walk to the wharf below Bryggen and board the 10am Mostraumen cruise. Returns 13:00. The narrows are spectacular regardless of weather. Buy tickets at the dock (check rodne.no to confirm times).

Depending on which option you chose: post-ridge walk, Fløistuen restaurant at Fløyen summit. Post-cruise, Bare Vestland restaurant near the harbour.

KODE art museums if culture is your thing. The old cemetery and wooden houses in Sandviken north of Bryggen. Or just walk along the harbour front and buy good cheese and chocolate at Mathallen to take home.